In 1985, in the thick of the quartz crisis, a handful of idealists established the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants to defend the particular values of handcrafted and inventive mechanical horology. Twenty-five years on, and the AHCI is now a landmark.

Anyone passing through the AHCI stand at this year's Baselworld couldn't fail to notice Konstantin Chaykin's latest creation. Particularly as it seemed all the other exhibitors, intent on showing just what the AHCI is capable of, had conspired to direct visitors' attention to this outstanding timepiece.

A chronograph movement with column wheel, co-axial escapement, silicon balance spring and time-zone function joins the legendary Speedmaster range. A series-produced calibre finished to a remarkably high standard.

A new Opus by Harry Winston and a new concept by Denis Giguet: a watch that explodes the hour to reconstruct it a fraction of a second later. An apparent anarchy that never loses track of time.

Suppliers to the watch industry are increasingly a well of innovation for their customers, as two new coatings, white PVD and hybrid ceramic, both presented at EPHJ-EPMT, demonstrate.