Behind the scenes at the big Geneva sales, long-gone brands are enjoying a second life. And for good reason, as certain of these late lamented names are turning up the kind of hidden gem that sets vintage fans alight.

For more than 30 years, the Portofino has measured time with Italian flair. Two new complications now join the collection. They are a retrograde tourbillon, and a moon-phase display in a Hand-Wound Eight Days model.

On the wrist or as a pendant, Harry Winston reminds us that time is a precious commodity. With its cascade of brilliant-cut and marquise diamonds, the Divine Time high jewellery watch captures the Art Deco mood in spectacular fashion.

It could be mistaken for a smartwatch on standby, but connoisseurs will know that the new Swiss Alp Watch Zzzz, its dial stripped of all signatures, is a 100% mechanical watch.

Despite three fewer working days, April saw watch industry exports reach a figure of 1.5 billion francs. At -5.7%, the contraction was less severe than expected. The trend therefore remains close to the figure posted at the end of March. For the first four months of the year, the variation is -3.6%.