Breitling, Lang & Heyne and Piaget have all presented a new type of wheel this year. Made from silicon or gold, their purpose is to improve performance. All three are made not by machining, but using erosion or material growth technology.

As precision instruments used for special missions and covered by military secrecy, some watches made by Panerai in the 1940s had no indication on the dial apart from the hour markers. But other models carried names referring to the luminous substance used on the dial – Radiomir or Luminor – or of the institution which had commissioning the watches, the Italian Navy. Inspired by these is the new Luminor 1950 3 Days, a special edition of 1,000 units, with the inscription "MARINA MILITARE" on the dial, distinguished by its pure lines and strict fidelity to the characteristics of the historic models.

Flagging demand, a strong Swiss franc, competition from smartwatches, changing consumption habits… multiple factors are prompting watch brands to rethink their strategy. Particularly distribution.

While most Breitling watches are born to fly, the brand is also reputed among professionals for its instruments designed to conquer great depths, such as the Avenger II Seawolf. Water-resistant to 3,000 m (10,000 ft), this model flaunts all the distinctive characteristics one would expect from a champion of the abyss.

Resolve and patience, talent and hard work have got Roman Gauthier where he is today. A watchmaker as well as a specialist component supplier, he continues our series of portraits of contemporary artisan-watchmakers who take a different approach to the measurement of time.